A Tavola, Darlinghurst

In the interest of full disclosure I admit that I ate at A Tavola months ago, all the way back in July – the end of July, granted but still July. Is there a statute of limitations on tardy reviews? If so, I may have grounds to ignore it. This July dinner was in fact a celebration of my birthday, in April – early April. Delay seems to be the theme here but it was so delicious that it seems a shame to let it slip by.

A family dinner at A Tavola, mid-winter. We attempt to translate the all Italian blackboard menu while nibbling on warmed focaccia peppered with chilli, rosemary and fat flakes of sea salt. ‘Topinambur’ and ‘Anguilla’ get the better of us as our waitress appears.

Zuppa di topinambur e tartufo nero – Jerusalem artichoke soup with black truffles

A Tavola is busy on a Saturday night. We are seated on the communal table in this long, narrow restaurant closed up against the cold and with nary a soft surface in sight it is noisy in here. It is so packed that I think I am actually sitting behind the bar – not that I mind with this excellent view into the kitchen. Other than the din, there is no indication that the restaurant is getting slammed at all. The service is knowledgeable and amiable while the kitchens timing is spot on.

Tonno scottato con fregola sarda – Seared tuna with Sardinian Fregola

My carefully constructed entree of seared tuna atop fregola with the finest shavings of fennel was bursting with freshness tempered by fragrant, bold olive oil. It was naughty too with tuna stocks so low due to overfishing this will likely be the last time I eat this lovely fish in a long time. The jerusalem artichoke soup is satisfyingly creamy but retains that underlying taste of dead ants which is enhanced by a generosity of truffle shavings.

Pappardelle con maiale e balsamico – Pappardelle with pork ragout and balsamic vinegar

rotolo con ripieno di piselli e ricotta – Rotolo with peas and ricotta

A Tavola is known for its homemade pasta. Passing this little hole in the wall during the day you will often find the dining area festooned with ribbons of pappardelle and trays of short shapes drying. I often forgo ordering pasta in restaurants, too many bad experiences of flaccid spaghetti, dry despite excessive cheesiness. I adore well prepared pasta and A Tavola lived up to expectation.

The rotolo, tender pasta sheets filled with creamy ricotta and bursting with bright green freshness, managed to be filling without heaviness, a little taste of Spring, mid-winter. My pappardelle, however, was all winter. Rich pork ragout, brightened with balsamic and the occasional parsley leaf, mixed through beautifully fine al-dente pasta was like a big warm generous hug. With a glass of red wine this was perfect comfort food.

Gnocchi di patate con Anguilla et purri – Potato gnocchi with smoked eel

Light pillows of potato gnocchi get a little lost in the rich smokiness of the creamy eel sauce, but act wonderfully a conveyer for the tasty dressing. The serving looks a little meagre, only due to the richness of the dish; it is so filling. The gnocchi highlights the thoughtfulness of A Tavola, considered, well executed and thoroughly enjoyable.

Soffio al cioccolato – Chocolate fondant with hazelnut ice cream

Our chocolate fondant dessert arrives warm, fresh from the oven with a pleasant chewiness to the edges, soft and gooey in the centre. A delightful end to a fabulous meal.

A Tavola isn’t breaking new ground with novel and eccentric dishes, instead it is doing something better. Serving well prepared, delicious and affordable Italian food with great service in a relaxed and friendly space. It is almost six months later and I am still thinking about this meal, telling, no?

A Tavola
348 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
02 9331 7871