Bánh gối
If I’ve learned anything in my few months in Hanoi, other than how to cross the road, it is this simple rule: when you’re out with Vietnamese friends leave the eating decisions up to them. So on a recent sight-seeing outing I was happy to go where the locals chose when it was decided that it was time for lunch. And by decided I mean when everyone got sick of me broadcasting my hunger level, from mild grumbling through extreme to ‘if I don’t eat now?!?!?!’. Apparently I get hungrier quicker, bad news when you’re hanging with the food unimpressed (I’m talking about my Western peers not the locals, of course). Luckily we made it to our lunch destination without me exploding in to a low-blood sugar rage, a sidewalk table was quickly assembled and food ordered.
We had travelled into the old quarter, an area not readily associated with delicious food epiphanies so my expectations were low. But we were here to eat fried things and I do have a special place in my heart set aside for fried things. My situation looks up when I’m dragged from my spaced out state by a plate piled high with deep fried dumplings, unceremoniously dumped in front of me. Astute readers will recall my intense dumpling love. When these two deliciousnesses overlap you better believe I’m going to love those venn diagrammable fried dumplings, or I’m going to give it my best shot. These aren’t your average dumplings though, they’re closer to pasties or curry puffs, but don’t resent them that, no siree.
Bánh gối, or pillow cakes, seem to be the curry-less curry puff of Vietnamese cuisine. Deep fried pastry perfection encasing a texturally diverse jumble of glass noodles, minced pork, wood ear mushrooms and thin slices of lap cheong. Crisp, flaky exteriors, flavourful fillings. Dip them in the your self-adjusted sauce and alternate mouthfuls with cold vermicelli noodles and plentiful fresh herbs.
Several mountains of fried spring rolls were also ordered, but they played second fiddle to the bánh gối in my opinion.
My friends ordered the perfect amount, it seemed spectacularly gluttonous to begin with so I felt free to gorge myself, nearly turning into a pillow cake myself. As we sat contemplating the final few lonely pieces of spring roll and curls of noodle one of our party appeared with a plastic bag full of chilli salt sprinkled half ripe mango. Sounds rank, tastes amazing.
This mango is partially ripe, slightly sweet and reminiscent of a summer evening gorging on fruit with softened orange flesh, but remains crunchy and tart. A mouthful of this mango unadorned is tasty enough, but a light dressing of chilli and salt (and possibly msg?) emphasises the sweet astringent notes and adds spice and extra interest. I have eaten totally hard green mangoes like this before, but much prefer the partially ripened version. I could eat this all day, but I listened to my friends and slowed down thereby avoiding a stomach ache from gorging. Does anyone know what mangoes prepared in the way are called?
Blood sugar levels evened out we moved on for some more sight seeing closely followed by another snack. Like I said, leave the eating decisions up to the locals and you will be rewarded.
Bánh gối
52 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.
This work, unless otherwise expressly stated, is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 Unported License.
11 Comments
Banh goi are great and nice post but I was surprised by:
” old quarter, an area not readily associated with delicious food epiphanies”
Not by you maybe but there are plenty who do.
Try this:
http://gastronomyblog.com/hanoi-top-10/
You break my heart a little. I crave for these badly! Have been visiting that shop ever since I was a little girl.
.-= Anh´s last blog ..Weather change. Recipe: Autumn chestnut soup =-.
Oh Lili, I love those mangos! Haha that description really doesn’t make it sound appealing but it’s one of my favourite things to snack on. Sounds like you’re having a blast!
.-= Minh´s last blog ..The Final Sojourn, Sojourn, Balmain =-.
Those look disgustingly addictive… never heard of them before…
.-= deana@lostpastrememb´s last blog ..Verjus =-.
Hello.
* The best * spring rolls I’ve ever eaten were seafood spring rolls in Halong Bay.
When in Rome…
Lili, I love your post. It’s so fun and personal and really makes you crave the food. Can you elaborate on the flavour of those mangoes?
.-= Fouad @ The Food Blog´s last blog ..Beef Nachos $9.90 – Guzman y Gomez – Lunch @ Sydney CBD =-.
Steve Jackson: I’ve eaten around the old quarter a bit and can count on one hand the meals that I would want to eat again. Of course I haven’t eaten everything and this post proves that my low opinion of the area isn’t always right.
I don’t think that the link you posted really supports your point though. Gastronomy blog is great, and I really respect Cathy’s amazing Vietnamese food knowledge. I like the Bun Cha from Dac Kim, Xoi Yen and Kem Xoi that are on the list. But she lived in Saigon. I don’t know exact details but from reading the posts (yeah, I’ve seen this before) it seems as though they didn’t spend much time in Hanoi. Of course they are going to mention many places in the Old Quarter, they probably didn’t leave that area too much.
Anh: Oh really? Aren’t you coming back to visit sometime soon?
Minh: I’ve updated the description
Aren’t they great!
deana@lostpastrememb: They are wonderful, but luckily this shop is in an area of town that I rarely visit.
Frances Jones: While you were on a boat in Halong Bay? Wonderful!
Fouad @ The Food Blog: I updated the post to better describe the mangoes. Enjoy!
I totally loved those things! Although they are really just another variation on nem to me.
I agree, the old quarter is certainly not where the best food in Hanoi is found. It’s a jammed hole where people don’t care so much about the food they’re pumping out, same as any other tourist trap. Hanoi is way too randomly spread out to pin point the old quarter as being THE place to eat well. Way too many other gems darted about to talk of. I was easily bored by Vietnamese food, that’s why while I was there I found your blog so useful and fun to read, cos there was someone else out there who ‘dared’ speak the truth of their tummy and taste buds and talked about other food you could easily obtain and cook yourself, using local products and also the great mini marts that are full of food from all over the world!
And I still use your blog now!
Your curry-less puffs have a lot of tasty fillings! The mangoes sound beautifully refreshing too.
well lili the time draws near and my excitement levels abt arriving in hanoi are going thru the roof.this map will be used greatly in our 4 days while we are in hanoi.the polution is one thing i’m worried about though and traffic of course. Will be doing the trip to the silk town,and lots of eating !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Ozmo, have an amazing time! I hope you tell me all about it. Enjoy!