Eating in Luang Prabang

Remember my recent post about eating in Vientiane? Well here is it’s sister, a snapshot of some great food eaten in Luang Prabang.

Bamboo shoots at the market in Luang Prabang.

This post is a little sparse not because Luang Prabang lacks interesting eating options, but more because I wasn’t too interested in being there when I was there. For various reasons my little jaunt to Laos wasn’t an entirely pleasant experience, though it was lightened by surprising nem kao and early mornings started with thick chocolatey coffee.

Coffee

I have a confession to make. I will choose a sock filtered coffee with sweet milk over an italian style coffee any day, and amazing examples are to be found in Laos. On previous visits to this small, calm tourist town I recall sitting in a shack across from the river drinking coffee and eating pastries. This time I was here alone and staying in a different part of a town so rapidly changing that this dilapidated shelter could have been replaced by the latest 4 star hotel. Luckily it hasn’t been yet. I found my way here, parked myself on a bench next to an elderly man and ordered.

Plates of fried dough and other ‘cakes’ are scattered around the table, just help yourself. The only other food available is the odd glass filled with half boiled eggs, eaten with a shake of pepper and a slug of what looked like soy sauce, reminiscent of breakfasts in Singapore and Malaysia.

The coffee is as outstanding as I remembered, just cool enough to drink, not too sweet or bitter but rich and satisfying. My first morning I was the odd one out, but subsequent morning saw gaggles of french tourists, and even an entire Thai tour group who all ordered iridescent Thai tea.
I really like this little place, friendly staff, amazing coffee, dingy surrounds, I hope it isn’t pushed out by the growing tourist trade.

Coffee and ‘cakes’
mornings only from 5am to midday
Corner of Khem Khong and Kitsalat Road, Luang Prabang, Laos
I don’t rate the noodle soups here, stick to coffee.

Congee with toasts

Can you tell I like congee? Well here is another yet another rice soup breakfast with two interesting twists. Number one is the location, a quiet corner next to a divine wat. Second is the fried bread accompaniment. Fried bread, oh yes. Plain and simply fresh white bread is dipped in an eggy batter dotted with spring onions, fried golden in clean oil and drained well. The whole shebang is savoury with fried crisp edges and the perfect breakfast combo. Why have a fried egg and toast when you can have it all together in such a delicious little package. Yeah the congee was pretty good too (there are those eggs again!), but these toasts are where it is AT!

Congee and toasts
mornings
Sisavangvong Road
cheap as.

Things to do in Luang Prabang
- visit the night food market. It runs perpendicular to the night market and is a great place to eat grilled meats, sticky rice and chilli sauce. Find desserts at the night market end of the lane, maybe wedges of softened pumpkin filled with steamed custard, or packages of tapioca sweets rolled in coconut. There is also noodle soup and nem kao (though this Lao version of Banh Cuon finishes early).

- visit the morning market. Fruit, vegetables, meat, prepared foods as well as some oddities are all available here. More pictures flickr or here.

- get up early to see the alms giving ceremony. If you are planning a trip here then you will no doubt have heard about this. Forget about a peaceful dawn procession, there is no enlightenment to be found here. On my 3rd trip to Luang Prabang I finally got up early and saw what it is all about. It was more cameras clicking and offensive foreigners than anything else.

PS: I saw these fruits all over the place in Laos and Thailand, but never got to taste any. What are they?