Hakata bunko, Hongdae

Eating alone in South Korea can be difficult. Traditionally Koreans eat in groups but reports indicate that this is slowly changing though I rarely see evidence of solo diners. Restaurants are often set up for communal dining, with some dishes only being available for two or three people. This can be a problem for me, as I often find myself starving in Seoul and alone.

Now, I’m more than happy to eat by myself, and you’d better believe that I’m used to getting stared at, especially while doing things that the locals think strange~~ (which is probably most of the time). But do I really want to sit down to a two person meal alone? Not one bit. So in these instances I seek out dinners suitable for one: burgers, rice porridge, chinese noodles, and last friday night: Tonkotsu Ramen from Hakata Bunko.

Hakata Bunko is a small, no-frills kind of place, all but devoid of the usual curlicues of Korean interior design. I sat at the wooden bar watching bowl after bowl of In-Ramen being prepared. The menu, available in English, is only 3 items long with two ramen dishes and one rice, but the entire time I was there only one option, In-Ramen, was ordered. Tonkotsu ramen broth is made with pork bones, cloudy with collagen, rich and fatty. Thin wheat noodles, cooked al-dente, a slice of tender pork, fat intact, chopped spring onions and the freshest of bean sprouts float in the decadent broth. Add freshly crushed garlic from the press on your table, or sesame seeds, or pickled ginger, or kimchi (a reminder that you’re still in Korea), to customise the meal to your tastes.

I finished the whole bowl in about 20 seconds flat. Then I needed a little lie down and some fruit to cut through the fat. This hasn’t stopped me from dreaming sweet In-Ramen dreams all week.

As with many eateries in Seoul, there is often a line here at peak times. I’d suggest waiting in it. The service may not be crash hot, but serving complimentary nutty iced tea and that incredible ramen is reason enough.

Hakata Bunko (하카타분코)
Hours: 12pm – 12am daily.
Order: In-Ramen 7,000₩ (~$6.30AU)

@hakatabunko (Korean).