Category Archives: Korean

What I ate – Korean restaurant edition.

Dwaeji kimchi jiggae In September I left Seoul. After the rush and heartbreak of finishing work and moving out of my house I had a little over a week to say goodbye to this city that kept teaching me new ways to love it. Here’s what I ate. Friday: Dinner: Dwaeji Kimchi Jiggae – Kimchi […]

Posted in Korean, Seoul, Seoult and Pepper | 2 Comments

Mindeulle Cheoleom 민들레처럼

Omija alcohol (5,000 won per jar) Hyehwa is a spirited neighbourhood, half university town and half theatre district. The alleys off the main thoroughfare are dizzy with shops, eateries and theatres, providing interest in excess of the usual Seoul cookie-cutter neighbourhood. We’re here to visit a traditional Korean pub with a twist. This place infuses […]

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Mul naengmyeon I asked my students what they will do over their summer break, most will study, some will eat ice cream and more will eat naengmyeon. Naengmyeon (냉면, cold noodles), could well be the perfect summer-time light meal. The northern cities of Pyongyang and Hamheung are famous across South Korea for different regional variations of […]

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You’ll see gamjatang (감자탕) described as pork spine stew, but don’t let that put you off. ‘Spine’ feels too visceral and gnarly for this comforting and frankly delicious dish. Think of it instead as a pork bone stew with vegetables, just like your grandma would make, if she had a penchant for chilli. Gamjatang is peasant […]

Posted in Korean, Seoult and Pepper | 3 Comments


Gopchang (곱창). Even the word sounds unpleasant. That’s it, up there. A cow’s small intestine, all fatty and grotesque. Seoul has whole streets of restaurants devoted to these insides, simply fried table-side in their own fat. But I’d never eaten intestines in Korea, always opting for something a little less nauseating than an entire meal of […]

Posted in Korean, Seoult and Pepper | 2 Comments